Donia Antonietta, Brad and Lidia
Teotitlán del Valle is a small village and municipality located in the Tlacolula District in the east of the Central Valley Region, 31 km from the city of Oaxaca in the foothills of the Sierra Juárez mountains. It is part of the Tlacolula Valley district. It is known for its textiles, especially rugs, which are woven on hand-operated looms from wool obtained from local sheep and dyed mainly with local, natural dyes. They combine historical Zapotec designs with contemporary designs such as reproductions of famous artists' work. Artists take commissions and participate in tours of family-owned workshops. The name Teotitlán comes from Nahuatl and means "land of the gods." Its Zapotec name is Xaguixe, which means "at the foot of the mountain." Established in 1465, it was one of the first villages founded by Zapotec peoples in this area and retains its Zapotec culture and language.The town of Teotitlan del Valle is extremely clean. The town runs a recycling program and the street signs are in Zapotec.
Recycled material skirt designed by a local 8 year old for a school pageant
Antonietta and Lucio comprise part of the Familia Vicente Galan.
Brad studied with Antonietta's daughter Maestra Susana. Lucio had handed down his knowledge of natural dyes and weaving to her and Brad was glad to have her as his teacher.
Susana y Brad dyeing with black Zapote
Everyone in Teotitlan is a weaver. Everywhere you went you saw looms in the courtyard of homes and skeins of wool hanging from the rafters.
Susana's wool inventory....amazing !
Her home was a weaving compound with a big central atrium, with numerous looms and yarns distributed throughout for each family member's needs.
Susana's teaching area
Brad spinning wool
Damian looking at a cochinilla dyed rug
As I said, everyone in Teotitlan weaves, even the smallest of the family. That would be Damian who is 4 years old. He and I hung out while Brad was learning from Maestra Susana. Damian showed me his small loom and the first rug he had every woven.
Damian's child sized loom
Damian's first rug
Another family member who is an accomplished weaver is Susana's son Alex.
We watched Alex work. Brad noticed that he is a very precise and quick weaver.
We were interested in natural dyes and techniques and Susana led us through the world of dye plants.
Of special interest was the Cochinilla that grew on the Nopal de Castilla. It's vibrant red hue is one of the most prized and admired and a mystery to most people.
Harvested and dried Cochinilla
The hues of Cochinilla
Brad's Cochinilla dyed wool
A wonderful Cochinilla dyed rug
Brad's Black Zapote and Cochinilla dyed yarns
Susana taught us the varied plants needed for the dyes and we discussed
how to process and use the dyes and mordants.
Pomegranate colors
View from Antonietta's front door
Zapotec ruins in back of town church
Construction plans of church built over Zapotec ruins
Fco. on church steps
Brad and Fco. examining new adobe wall
Beautiful home in town square
We also took a day trip to Oaxaca City to see if our memories of it were still true. Unfortunately what we saw was a city decaying with urban sprawl, dirty streets full of car traffic, Walmarts and Oxxos. The historic center offered a bit more tradition and history but it was also deeply infected.
After a few hours in Oaxaca City we high-tailed it back to Teotitlan del Valle. It was a sweet welcome to be back in the small town with mototaxis and a few automobiles.
We had a meal at Restaurant Tlamanalli located in a beautiful, recently renovated
traditional home.
Brad ordered the black zapote ice and I the tlayuda quesadilla...yum!
There were so many wonderful weavings that we could not stop walking the town
and visiting its many vendors and shops.
At the end of our trip we realized that we had purchased too many items
to pack in our bags. Doña Antonietta was kind enough to offer to send
our packages to Ajijic.
Brads fibers packed into just one parcel.
Wherever you are...be it with family, friends or traveling, we wish for you
the most peaceful, calm and satisfying
holidays this year.
Danzante Fco.
