Travels In Mexico: Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca

Brad and I decided to take a week long trip to Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca to visit our Zapotec friend Doña Antonietta. We met Doña Antonietta and her husband Lucio in Ajijic, where they visited and sold their wonderful tapetes or rugs. Together we created "Weaving Week in Ajijic" and brought a week long weaving exhibition and sale to the plaza in Ajijic.

Donia Antonietta, Brad and Lidia

Teotitlán del Valle is a small village and municipality located in the Tlacolula District in the east of the Central Valley Region, 31 km from the city of Oaxaca in the foothills of the Sierra Juárez mountains. It is part of the Tlacolula Valley district. It is known for its textiles, especially rugs, which are woven on hand-operated looms from wool obtained from local sheep and dyed mainly with local, natural dyes. They combine historical Zapotec designs with contemporary designs such as reproductions of famous artists' work. Artists take commissions and participate in tours of family-owned workshops. The name Teotitlán comes from Nahuatl and means "land of the gods." Its Zapotec name is Xaguixe, which means "at the foot of the mountain." Established in 1465, it was one of the first villages founded by Zapotec peoples in this area and retains its Zapotec culture and language.

The town of Teotitlan del Valle is extremely clean. The town runs a recycling program and the street signs are in Zapotec.

Recycled material skirt designed by a local 8 year old for a school pageant

Antonietta and Lucio comprise part of the Familia Vicente Galan.

Brad studied with Antonietta's daughter Maestra Susana. Lucio had handed down his knowledge of natural dyes and weaving to her and Brad was glad to have her as his teacher.

Susana y Brad dyeing with black Zapote

Everyone in Teotitlan is a weaver. Everywhere you went you saw looms in the courtyard of homes and skeins of wool hanging from the rafters.

Susana's wool inventory....amazing !

Her home was a weaving compound with a big central atrium, with numerous looms and yarns distributed throughout for each family member's needs.

Susana's teaching area

Brad spinning wool

Damian looking at a cochinilla dyed rug

As I said, everyone in Teotitlan weaves, even the smallest of the family. That would be Damian who is 4 years old. He and I hung out while Brad was learning from Maestra Susana. Damian showed me his small loom and the first rug he had every woven.

Damian's child sized loom

Damian's first rug

Another family member who is an accomplished weaver is Susana's son Alex.

We watched Alex work. Brad noticed that he is a very precise and quick weaver.

We were interested in natural dyes and techniques and Susana led us through the world of dye plants.

Of special interest was the Cochinilla that grew on the Nopal de Castilla. It's vibrant red hue is one of the most prized and admired and a mystery to most people.

Harvested and dried Cochinilla

The hues of Cochinilla

Brad's Cochinilla dyed wool

A wonderful Cochinilla dyed rug

Brad's Black Zapote and Cochinilla dyed yarns

Susana taught us the varied plants needed for the dyes and we discussed

how to process and use the dyes and mordants.

Pomegranate colors

View from Antonietta's front door

Zapotec ruins in back of town church

Construction plans of church built over Zapotec ruins

Fco. on church steps

Brad and Fco. examining new adobe wall

Beautiful home in town square

We also took a day trip to Oaxaca City to see if our memories of it were still true. Unfortunately what we saw was a city decaying with urban sprawl, dirty streets full of car traffic, Walmarts and Oxxos. The historic center offered a bit more tradition and history but it was also deeply infected.

After a few hours in Oaxaca City we high-tailed it back to Teotitlan del Valle. It was a sweet welcome to be back in the small town with mototaxis and a few automobiles.