Good Friday

So it's Good Friday and Mexico is especially reverent and solemn during this time of the week.

I plan on attending mass somewhere, probably the church in Ajijic, which seems the most authentic.  As a child I remember the Stations Of The Cross, which were part of the Easter week service.  These were very dramatic and sad...but thinking more upon this I realize that it is all part of the rebirth process, of spring, the darkness before the light.

Good Friday Service

St. Francisco Church, Chapala

And like most of us, I welcome the spring with open arms for it's sprays of color and tsunami waves of scents.  We have a plumaria tree at the entrance of our house, which has been gifting us with beautifully fragrant flowers throughout our stay.  Brad carries them around as a nosegay...he is very sweet this way.

Spring, The Taj

Some interesting facts about Good Friday were found, and I'd like to share these.

Hot Cross Buns. The familiar hot cross buns are sweet rolls with the sign of the cross cut into it, and they are one of several traditional European breads marked with a cross for Good Friday. According to tradition, these buns originated at St Alban's Abbey in 1361, where the monks gave them to the poor people who came there. (You may have your own recipe for sweet-rolls to which you can add currants or raisins before shaping and cut a cross in the top before baking; or you can buy them.) These Good Friday buns were very popular, and were sold by vendors who cried,

Hot cross buns, Hot cross buns! One a-penny two a-penny, Hot cross buns! If you have no daughters, give 'em to your sons! One a-penny two a-penny, Hot cross buns!

Good Friday was thought to be a good day for planting seeds (a reference to the Gospel about the seeds which must be planted in the ground to bear fruit as a metaphor for Christ's necessary death and His burial on this day) so if the weather permits, this could be a worthwhile activity.

Brad and I decided to talk a stroll into Chapala in the afternoon...it is only a mile from our house, a beautiful stroll along the Malecon...and as expected, it seemed as if all of Guadalajara and surrounding areas had come to Chapala for the week.

Malecon Brad

I ran into my friend Richard and his family strolling and had a wonderful visit with them.  Richard owns our local Abarrotes corner market in Guadalajara.  His family had come for a leisurely meal, a nice walk and distraction.

CCC - While in town we headed for the plaza to get some freshly squoozen Jugo Verde/Zanahoria juice (green/carrot juice)...our favorite snack. 

Mazamitla Huarache

And while in the plaza why not do as the locals do and get your shoes shined?  I've had my huaraches for about 14 years now.  The were made in Mazamitla, right across the lake in the higher altitudes of the mountain there...and it was time for a shine.  The gentleman who shined them for me said they were way overdue...he was right.  But he made them seem like new somehow.

And on our stroll we happened upon this child, who decided that he would get his mud spa treatment at the lake's shore.  Both Brad and I laughed as we watched him relish the experience...and the price was right....free!

We also saw this shorebird...which we can't identify.  If any of our birding friends have an ID, please let us know.  At first we thought this might be a Great Blue Heron, but think perhaps not.

Calle Porfirio Diaz

Continuing our stroll we found this lovely street named Porfirio Diaz, after the Mexican president.  It brought memories of the French Quarter.  The street was created around Mexico's Belle Epoque era.

After purchasing mucha fruta and veggies at the mercado, Brad and I split up.  He went back to the casita, and I was late for church.  I wanted to take in the Good Friday services, because they contained the Stations Of The Cross, which is a walk through history, restating the journey that Christ made to Calvary and his crucifixion.  I had always found these stations meditative and wonderfully reflective, but when asked by Brad how the church going went, I had to state the I mostly rolled my eyes at the service...it was disappointing to not have had the same, wonderful childhood experience again.

Semana Santa Saturday

The day started off with a bike ride along the lake, heading toward Ajijic.  The air is brisk in the morning here, a great time to get in a good ride.  The mist on the lake lifts and you are gifted with panoramas that take your breathe away. 

After my ride and stop for a latte and a newspaper read in the plaza in Ajijic, we are headed to the other end of the lake to a town called Jocotepec.   The meaning of Jocotepec is thus derived: Xoco-tepe-K, meaning Xoco (acid); Tepetl (hill); and K (place)." 

The municipality of Jocotepec has a large variety of trees and plants, mostly located inside garden walls. The main plaza is surrounded by greenery, making it very inviting.  Vegetation is composed mainly of jacaranda, galeana, hule, pine, roble, cazuarina, mesquite, guamuchil, chaparrale and encino. Fruit trees such as mango, avocado, lime, lemon and orange are also abundant.

In North Jocotepec, acacia, huizache and palo-bobos predominate, while in the south (lake) side, there are a few sauce trees and sabinos. A large farm grows raspberries for export. Fields of corn, chayote are very common in this area.  Jocotepec seems to be a large agricultural export town.

Joco Fco.

Joco Aerial View

Joco Brad

CCC - One of our favorite treats has been to sit in the Jocotepec plaza and have something the locals call a Frappe...which is an icy, blended ambrosia of coffee, ice cream, crushed ice, cinnamon and chocolate sauce.  On a hot day there is nothing better than to have one of these in hand, sippin' in the shade over looking the plaza.  Thankfully, the concoction has not changed in years, nor the hearty greeting by the locals.

Frappe Happy Brad

 Joco Main Plaza

Frappe

I was in need of thin, ankle-length socks so we wandering around town.  We found my socks and also found a new set of murals adorning the wall outside of the local cultural center.  Brad stated that there is always something new to see in the wonderfully constant, stable town.

What caught our eye in this new mural panel was the crucified Christ with tree branches and roots for arms and legs.  The melding of the spiritual with the natural is so prevalently seen here and the image seems so natural in place.  The plastic arts are beautifully and flexibly represented in Mexico.

And this detail for an unfinished second panel was beautiful just the way it was.

CCC - Hunger was banging at our door so we drove back to San Juan Cosala, a lakeside town known for its spectacular views, its seafood and its lazy afternoon meals.  We chose Las Gaviotas because they had equipales and apparently no expats.  It was perfect.

Las Gaviotas

We feasted on Mojarra ceviche, guacalmole and the best chile rellenos we've both every eaten!  Brad said "Now, I've tasted a real chile relleno".

Chile Relleno ala Las Gaviotas

Completely sated after a long, leisurely meal, we drove back home for a siesta that lasted 4 hours.  By the time I awoke, it was dark outside and time to write this blog.

So for now, we sign off saying "Buenas Noches".  Remember life is just a bunch of globos waiting to be enjoyed.

Night,

Fco. y Brad

Maundy Thursday

Almost as if on cue, we awoke to the first non-sunny day in Chapala.  It was beautifully overcast this morning, so what better time to take the ole bicycle out on its maiden lago ride?  I dusted off my Specialized mountain bike, pumped up the tires, which amazingly still held and oiled up the chain...then rode and rode and rode around the lake, past Ajijic and into San Tomas, the next town.

It's a funny thing...kilometers seem much shorter if you are driving a car...on a bicycle they seem to stretch and stretch...what took me 5 mins. to drive now took me 15 mins. to ride.  But it was a lovely ride, so I didn't mind.  On the way back home I stopped to buy 1/2 kilo of freshly made corn tortillas and freshly 'squoozen' orange juice for breakfast.

We opted for oatmeal with fresh raspberries, bananas and dates, which Brad had conveniently made while I was out riding.  The fruit here is too good to pass up, so we stocked up at the farmer's market and are enjoying the bounty.

Today was Guadalajara day...and it being a holiday week, the traffic was light.  We arrived in 20 mins.  Our mission was to find our old blender for our use in the Chapala house, pick up my artwork and folkart, a few towels and return lakeside.  We were successful and packed the van with my treasures.

Ocumicho Devils

Tonala Platon

Ocumicho Sol

 

CCC - It always seems time to eat here...so hunger led us to El Farrallon del Tepic, an amazing seafood restaurant right around the block from the Guadalajara house.  We feasted on seafood ceviche, a la mexicana, grilled seasoned salmon and pescado filette a la Cordon Bleu, which was a beautiful, thick white fish filette stuffed with seafood in a cream mushroom sauce.  The food was so good that I forgot to take pictures...but just let your tastebuds run wild...imagine a perfectly cooked meal compelete with Michelada....ah, what perfection!  For dessert Brad had a Flan Nepolitano...a twist on traditional flan.  Flan Nepolitano is a whipped, fluffier version of the original...just as tasty.

Our plan was to drive to Tlaquepaque, an old artisan town just south of Guadalajara, on the way back to the lake, but our siestas were calling so we headed back to the lake.

In search of a specific water, we detoured through parts unknow of the city and happened upon the old railroad station. The story behind the old train station goes back to the beginning of the century. President Porfirio Diaz, who was Mexico's dictator for 35 years, often visited the Chapala area spending Easter Week, accompanied by Mexico City high society, in El Manglar (The Mango Grove), which was owned by his brother-in-law who people called "El Chato." Presently the property is divided in thirds and is owned by Jorge Dipp, Jorge Salcedo, and Jose Manuel Gomez.

That Porfirian time was called "The Belle Epoque," since Diaz benefited the elite and there were foreigners in the Mexican government. "They flocked in from the four corners of the world, and during this era Chapala became the watering hole and resort of the upper classes.

The former golf course of the estate is now a huge public park which runs right up to the lake...called Parque Christina.

As we arrived home lakeside, we felt small drops of rain...ever so slight...fall.  This would be our first rain here...a baptism of sorts....and it made my heart happy.

Perhaps this weather is fitting, it being Maundy Thursday.

from Wikipedia

Maundy Thursday (also known as Holy Thursday, Covenant Thursday, Great and Holy Thursday, Sheer Thursday and Thursday of Mysteries) is the Christian feast, or holy day, falling on the Thursday before Easter. It commemorates the Maundy and Last Supper of Jesus Christ with the Apostles as described in the Canonical gospels.^[1] It is the fifth day of Holy Week, and is preceded by Spy Wednesday and followed by Good Friday.^[2]

Most scholars agree that the English word Maundy in that name for the day is derived through Middle English and Old French mandé, from the Latin mandatum, the first word of the phrase "Mandatum novum do vobis ut diligatis invicem sicut dilexi vos" ("A new commandment I give unto you, That ye love one another; as I have loved you"), the statement by Jesus in the Gospel of John 13:34 by which Jesus explained to the Apostles the significance of his action of washing their feet.

So as I write, the rain is falling so beautifully, watering our garden and filling the lake again.
We have our rain barrels out and filling nicely...with tequila in hand I sign off.

Que todos tengan Buenas Noches.

xo,

Fco.

Organic Farmer's Market Tuesday

One of the things people here treasure greatly is good food.  You can't think of Mexico and not think of wonderful cuisine.  And the last time I visited the Ribera of Chapala the locals had just started an (OFM) organic farmer's market.

Our friend Charis, who is now a local home owner here, invited us to attend the OFM yesterday and to tour a few of the local plant nurseries.

As usual, our day started late because of something called Daylight Savings Time.  As most of you know, I have an issue with this thing called time.  I believe it is a societal fabrication invented to keep us all in line.  Brad says I don't believe in it.  I do...it's just that I try not to pay it much attention.  Like an irritating neighbor,  I find ignoring it is best.  So....time.....we were late in arriving at Craig and Charis' home because of the time change...who knew?  But like most Mexicans, Charis was unfazed by our late arrival and we piled into the family van and were off.  The OFM had been moved to a new area...The Laguna Mall...at the crossroads by the carretera or highway.  This new location affords more space, a lovely awninged terrrace and lots of welcoming smiles.

The food was both raw unprepared and prepared.  Most of the "green" organizations were represented, so it was an easy way to connect.  We found lovely chard, berries, (the local town of Jocotepec is known for it's agriculture and especially its berries in season - and in season we are!) tomatoes, zuchinni, onions, radishes, mustard leaf...we'll...a cornucopia of food wealth.  The vendors were interesting characters themselves and the visit flew by. 

Stocked, we took our treasures home and then headed for the largest nursery in town.  There we found most everything we'd need for a food garden and flower planting.  Fruit trees were abundant and we met some specimens we'd not seen before.  Discovery is so ingrained in this culture, which makes living here an adventure.



We were also to attend the meeting of the local Green Group later that same afternoon...so before we did we needed to eat, right?  So Charis introduced us to The Gossip...a little eatery right across the street from our last nursery stop.  We feasted on seafood stew in a rich, cream based sauce, crispy Caesar Salads, amazing crab cakes and Micheladas.  I thought I'd need a siesta right away, but the three of us were excited about this Green Group meeting.  The topic this month was the Lake Chapala Society Seed Bank.  Since the three of us are avid gardeners and want to start our our plants from seed, we hoped for networking connections and seed availability.  the LCS Seed Bank is a new venture, so most of the talk was an introduction to the bank and how it would assist the community.

As an afterthought, I dreamed of an Advanced Green Group for people who are already vested in the green movement and might have more specific topics to discuss...note to self:  start one!

The temperature is starting to heat up here.  19 degress celsius...so we found it the perfect time to head home and siesta....so we did....which ended our day nicely.

We awakened in time for a sunset walk along the lake...light dinner and a netflix movie...and then more slumber.



Hoping this report finds you well and rested.

xo,

Fco. y Brad

Palm Sunday In Chapala

Riberas Home

We finally settled into our home...at least initially...and I have had a chance to take a few images to share with you.  Our neighborhood is called Riberas Del Pillar.  It is situated on the Lago de Chapala.  It is a small 2 bedroom 2 bath with separate studio...in which Brad is presently seated, listening to Beethoven.  We plan on converting it into a working weaving, painting and design studio for now.  I told Brad that if Salvador Dali had written music, it would sound like Chopin.  During my writing I hear a ragtime movement in the classic piece.  Apparently Beethoven wrote this piece after he became completely deaf...he must have channeled the future, amongst his other talents.  I didn't know time travel was part of his repertoire.

So our house exterior is painted with cobalt blue walls and orange trim.  The property gate is painted in bright orange, so you can't miss it from the cobble stoned street...very Mexican palette outside, with more subdued interiors.

Our dining room is the first thing you see as you enter.

And our living room is a comfortable burnt copper color with lots of light.  The artwork is indigenous Huichol with Talavera ceramics.  The furniture Mexican worked wood.

Huichol String Art

We have a wonderful back patio with Equipales, where we experience the "bird show" every morning over coffee and pan dulce.

Our small yard complete with banana tree and well.

Our studio...which will become a working shop soon...just as soon as I finish unpacking.

Studio interior.

And so from our new home we ventured out yesterday, Sunday.  It was Palm Sunday and we knew that festivities were in progress.  We headed for Ajijic which has the central plaza to see what was brewing...and there was plenty to see...so forgive all the photos.

Papel Picado...what can I say?  It is a beautiful symbol of the element of air...of our spirits, soaring...of the Lady of the Lake blowing through the valleys and waterways.  It is my heart flapping to the rhythm of life, of the wings of the many birds found here...of music dancing through the streets.

Our local church in Ajijic.

El hermoso Lago de Chapala

Los globos.  I've always been fascinated with these Mexican balloons, and have imagined that one day I will buy all the globos from the vendor and give them out free to the children in the plaza...imagine how happy everyone will be...both vendor and children.

Jugos Mecanicos....one for my friend "Katy".  xo.

Everywhere we went we were greeted with celebration....of life, of the day, of nature.

Mural - J.V. Lopez Vega - Lake Chapala Society wall

And it seemed every street that we walked had a mural done by our friend J.V Lopez Vega.   Local Mexican artist Jesus Lopez Vega painted this wonderful mural on the wall just outside the entrance of the LCS on the street leading to the Lake. Lopez Vega often uses animals and ancient symbols to illustrate his work. The small objects under the turtle figure are clay vessels often found on the Lake shore when the water is low. In ancient times they were used to collect blood from body piercings, along with other sacred substances. The vessels were then thrown into the Lake as an offering to the gods.  These delicate 500+ year-old objects are in Jesus' studio.

Public art is see everywhere and helps to tell the story of place.  This mural depicts the annual ritual and offering to the lake deities in early May of each year.

When I first started coming to Chapala, I would see a flamboyant figure walking down the colorful streets of Ajijic....and the figure was even more flamboyant than the town he strolled through...which was saying alot!  This local celebrity is named Pepe Local.  I had heard from the townspeople that Pepe had been ill of health lately.  Naturally, I worried about him.  It was a great joy to see him out and about in town on Palm Sunday.  He used a walking cart now....but he didn't fail to give it his touch of style.  He normally rides around town in his donkey-pulled cart.  His donkey's toenails are usually painted bright pink and his donkey wears a headdress of flowers...quite a sight to see.

While Brad and I had drinks on a terrace overlooking the main plaza, Pepe arrived.  Everyone knew him...and he was treated regally, as should be.  It made my heart lighter to know he was well enough to stroll.  Brad told him "it is good to see you out and about".  Pepe contemplated this for a minute and respond "Yes, it is".

As we continued strolling through the town and along the Malecon, we ran into this interesting specimen of Dragon Tree, being photographed with my new favorite celebrity.

And we waited and waited for the Palm Sunday procession to start.  The streets were first cleared of all automobiles.  Alfalfa was strewn to cover the cobble stones.  And then Jesus arrived upon a donkey, making his way to the local church, being fanned by palms.

The procession was mostly local followers, with a few ex-pats thrown into the mix.

We enjoyed the day, it's fesitivies, food and celebration....but all this activity pulled us to our home....to siesta.

Wishing you and yours a lovely, deep, rest filled siesta.

Hasta pronto,

Fco. y Brad (zzzzzzzzzzzzz)